How to grow chives in Australia 🌿

Chives are perennial in most Australian climates, so the "when to plant" question is really about when to establish new plants. Once established, they re-emerge each year and need nothing from you.

Chives can be grown from seed, seedlings, or by dividing an existing clump. Division is the fastest method — a clump from a friend's garden, separated into 3–4 pieces, gives instant established plants.

Spacing: 20–30cm between plants. Each clump expands to about 25cm wide over a few years.

Depth: Plant seedlings or divisions at the same depth they were growing. Seeds 5mm deep.

Soil: Reasonable garden soil with some compost. Chives aren't fussy about soil quality but appreciate good drainage.

Division: Every 3–4 years, dig up established clumps and divide them with a spade. Plant divisions in fresh soil. This rejuvenates old plants that have become woody in the centre and gives you free new plants to spread around the garden or share.

Chives are highly pot-friendly and excellent for kitchen window gardens.

In-ground works well — chives are useful edging plants in vegetable beds, providing pollinator-friendly flowers in spring.

Raised beds suit chives but they don't need the premium conditions of a raised bed to thrive.

Pots are an excellent home for chives. A 20cm pot supports a productive clump for 2–3 years before needing division. Smaller pots (15cm) work for a single year. Place in any sunny spot — outdoor in any season, indoor on a windowsill through cold months. Water occasionally; chives tolerate forgetting more than most herbs. Divide and refresh the soil every 2–3 years to maintain vigour.

Full sun to part shade — 4 to 8 hours daily. Chives produce most leaves in full sun but tolerate shade better than most herbs.

Water moderately. Chives tolerate dry conditions better than most herbs but produce best with steady moisture.

Cut leaves with scissors near the base of the plant — within 2–3cm of the soil. New leaves regrow within 1–2 weeks. Take what you need; the plant produces more.

Don't cut all the leaves at once — leave at least a third of the plant standing so it can keep photosynthesising and producing.

The purple flower heads are edible — pull individual florets apart to scatter on salads, or use whole heads as a garnish. Flowering doesn't reduce leaf quality but does slow leaf production slightly.

Best used fresh. Chives don't dry well — the flavour disappears. They do freeze well chopped, in ice cube trays with a little water.

Chives have essentially no problems in Australian home gardens. The most common issue:

Yellowing or dying back in winter is normal in cool climates. The plant is dormant, not dead. Cut back any remaining brown leaves and wait for spring.

Slow growth or thin leaves in old clumps is a sign that division is needed. Dig up and split the clump every 3–4 years.

Rust can appear in very humid conditions. Remove affected leaves.

Plant near: Carrots (chives deter carrot fly), roses (deters aphids), tomato, lettuce.

Keep away from: Peas and beans (same allium-legume issue, though chives' impact is mild given their size).

Common chives (Allium schoenoprasum) — The standard chive, fine grass-like leaves, mild onion flavour, purple flowers. The variety almost always sold simply as "chives." Suits all climates.

Garlic chives (Chinese chives, Allium tuberosum) — Flat, broader leaves with mild garlic flavour. White flowers. Used extensively in Asian cooking. Same growing habits as common chives but slightly more vigorous and heat-tolerant. Excellent for subtropical and tropical gardens.