How to grow coriander in Australia
Also known as: Cilantro
Coriander is the herb people give up on too quickly. The common complaint — "it just bolts to seed within weeks" — isn't a technique problem, it's a timing problem. Coriander is a cool-season herb. Plant it in spring or summer and yes, it will bolt; plant it in autumn or winter and you'll have months of harvest from a single sowing. Get the timing right and coriander is one of the most generous herbs you'll grow. Both the leaves and the seeds are edible — the seeds (whole or ground as the spice coriander) are the long game if leaves bolt before you've had your fill.
When to plant
Coriander prefers cool weather (15–22°C). Hot conditions, long days, and dry soil all push it toward flowering and seed production rather than continued leaf growth.
April to August in the dry season. Coriander is impossible to grow in the wet season — it bolts immediately. Dry-season plantings produce reliably.
March to August. The cool half of the year is the productive window. Spring plantings bolt within weeks as days lengthen.
March to August. Autumn through winter is the main coriander season. A few sneaky September plantings sometimes work in mild years but most spring plantings bolt within a month.
February to September. Long productive window through autumn, winter, and early spring. Plants survive light frosts without damage.
February to September. Hobart and Canberra have one of Australia's longest coriander seasons. The cool conditions keep plants in leaf production for months.
March to August. Inland cool-season conditions suit coriander well.
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Open the full planting calendar →How to plant
Coriander is direct-sown. It doesn't transplant well — the long taproot dislikes disturbance and transplant stress often triggers immediate bolting.
Spacing: 15–20cm between plants for full-sized heads; closer (5–10cm) for cut-and-come-again leafy harvests.
Depth: Sow seeds 1cm deep. Each 'seed' is actually two seeds in a husk — they'll often germinate as pairs.
Soil: Reasonable garden soil with some organic matter. Coriander isn't fussy but produces best in steady, moisture-retentive conditions.
Succession planting: Sow a small batch every 3–4 weeks through the suitable cool season for continuous harvest. Coriander has a productive window of about 6–8 weeks per planting before bolting.
Pots, raised beds, or in-ground?
Coriander is pot-friendly when handled correctly.
In-ground is the standard. Direct sowing in the bed where the plants will mature avoids transplant stress.
Raised beds suit coriander well — improved drainage and steady soil moisture help.
Pots work well if you sow directly into the pot (not transplant). Use a wide pot (25cm+ across) and shallow rather than deep — coriander's taproot doesn't need extreme depth. A 20cm wide pot supports a small succession of 8–10 plants. Pots also let you move plants out of late-spring heat into shade, extending the season slightly.
Sunlight & water
Full sun in cool weather; part shade in warm weather. Afternoon shade in spring extends the productive window before bolting.
Water consistently. Dry soil triggers bolting — coriander needs steady moisture to keep producing leaves. Mulch helps.
When and how to harvest
Harvest leaves by cutting outer stems near the base, leaving the central growing point intact. The plant continues producing new leaves until heat or day length triggers flowering.
Once a plant starts to bolt (central stem lengthens, leaves get smaller and more feathery), leaf quality declines fast. Harvest everything remaining within a few days, and either start a new planting or let the bolted plants flower and set seed — coriander seed is a valuable spice in its own right.
For coriander seed: let plants flower and set green seed pods, then harvest the whole stems when pods turn brown. Hang upside down to dry; rub seeds out by hand.
Leaves are best used fresh. Don't dry coriander leaves — flavour disappears. Freeze chopped in oil or as part of pastes.
Common problems
Bolting is the most common issue. Almost always caused by hot weather, long days, water stress, or transplant shock. The fix is timing and direct-sowing rather than transplanting.
Slow germination is normal — coriander seeds take 10–14 days. Don't give up early.
Aphids on tender new growth. Strong water spray or insecticidal soap.
Damping off in damp seedling stages — collapsing at the soil line. Don't overwater; ensure good airflow.
Companion planting
Plant near: Tomato, beans, peas, spinach, anise. Coriander attracts beneficial predatory insects when flowering, so a few plants left to bolt and flower help pest control elsewhere in the garden.
Keep away from: Fennel (cross-pollinates with related Apiaceae and inhibits coriander growth).
Australian varieties
Slow-Bolt — Variety specifically bred for extended leaf production before bolting. The most reliable choice if you've struggled with quick-bolting plants. Available from most Australian seed suppliers.
Calypso — Modern slow-bolting variety, productive over a long window. Heritage and online seed suppliers.
Santo — Standard commercial variety, good leaf production. Widely available.
Vietnamese Coriander (Persicaria odorata) — Not actually coriander but used as a substitute in tropical climates where true coriander struggles. Perennial in warm climates, lower-growing, stronger flavour. Worth growing in Darwin, Brisbane, and tropical northern gardens where standard coriander is difficult year-round.
Cilantro for Seed — Some varieties are sold specifically for seed (spice) production rather than leaf. If your priority is coriander seed for cooking, look for these.