How to grow mint in Australia 🌿

Mint is perennial in all Australian climates. The "when to plant" question is about establishment — once a clump is established, it returns year after year.

Mint is almost always grown from seedlings, cuttings, or divisions rather than seed. A 5cm piece of mint stem placed in water sprouts roots within a week and can be planted — the easiest possible propagation.

Spacing: Plant a single mint plant per pot. In open ground (if you must), allow 30–50cm and accept it will spread.

Depth: Plant at the same depth as the cutting or seedling was growing.

Soil: Reasonable garden or potting mix with some compost. Mint isn't fussy. Slightly damp conditions suit it better than dry.

CONTAIN IT. Mint grown in open ground will spread via underground runners and take over the bed. The standard practice — and the right one — is to grow mint exclusively in pots. If you must grow it in-ground, sink a deep barrier (30cm minimum, completely buried) around the planting area. Bottomless buckets sunk into the ground work well as containment.

Mint is the textbook example of a herb that should only be grown in pots.

In-ground — don't, unless you're committed to that bed becoming a mint patch. The runners spread aggressively and are difficult to remove once established.

Raised beds — same warning as in-ground. Don't share a raised bed with vegetables you actually want.

Pots are the only sensible choice. A 25–30cm pot supports one mint plant for years. The pot itself contains the runners. Place the pot on paving or gravel (not on garden soil) — runners can escape through drainage holes if the pot sits directly on earth. Divide every 2–3 years to refresh: tip the pot out, cut the rootmass in half with a spade, repot one half in fresh soil, give the other half away.

Full sun to part shade — 4 to 8 hours daily. Mint tolerates more shade than most herbs and produces best with afternoon shade in hot climates.

Water regularly. Mint wilts dramatically when dry but recovers quickly. Pots dry out faster than ground — daily watering is common in hot weather.

Cut stems near the base or pinch off leaves and shoots as needed. The more you harvest, the more vigorously the plant grows. Cutting back hard occasionally (every few months) rejuvenates the plant and produces tender new growth.

Mint dries reasonably well — hang stems in a dry, ventilated spot. Mint freezes very well chopped, in ice cube trays with water (especially useful for mojito ice cubes through summer).

Rust can affect mint leaves in humid conditions. Cut back affected stems hard.

Mint moth caterpillars occasionally damage leaves. Hand-pick or use Dipel.

Plant decline after several years — older mint plants become woody and produce smaller leaves. Divide every 2–3 years to refresh.

The main problem is uncontained spread — covered in the pots section.

Plant near: Brassicas (mint may deter cabbage moths, though evidence is anecdotal), tomato.

Keep away from: Parsley (allelopathic), chamomile, other herbs in shared pots (mint will take over).

Common mint / Spearmint (Mentha spicata) — The standard culinary mint. Mild sweet flavour. Suits all climates.

Peppermint (Mentha × piperita) — Stronger menthol flavour. Same growing habits as common mint.

Vietnamese mint (Persicaria odorata) — Despite the name, not botanically a true mint. Used extensively in Vietnamese cooking. More heat-tolerant than European mints — excellent for tropical and subtropical gardens. Doesn't spread aggressively like true mints.

Apple mint — Rounded fuzzy leaves with mild apple-mint flavour. Tolerates more sun than common mint.

Chocolate mint — Variety with chocolate undertones in the flavour. Decorative as well as culinary.

Moroccan mint — Spearmint variety used in Moroccan tea. Stronger flavour than standard spearmint.