How to grow cabbage in Australia
Cabbage is the most forgiving of the heading brassicas. It tolerates a wider temperature range than cauliflower, isn't as demanding for nutrients as broccoli, stores well in the garden once headed up, and produces enormous yields from small spaces. The challenge with cabbage isn't growing it — it's the cabbage white butterfly, which lays eggs that hatch into caterpillars that can reduce a healthy plant to lace within days. Net the bed from planting day and the rest is mostly waiting.
When to plant
Cabbage tolerates a range of temperatures from cool to mildly warm, but the heads form most reliably when temperatures stay between 10–20°C during heading. The plant tolerates frost well — light frosts actually improve flavour by triggering sugar conversion in the leaves.
Cabbage is marginal in the tropics. The dry season (May to August) is your only realistic window. Choose fast-maturing mini varieties; large heading types won't develop properly. Asian leafy cabbages (Wong Bok, Chinese cabbage) handle tropical conditions better than European heading types.
March to July. Brisbane has a useful cabbage window through autumn and winter. Plant in autumn for winter harvest. Faster varieties (60–70 days) are more reliable than large traditional types in the narrower subtropical cool period.
February to July. Sydney and Perth have a generous cabbage season. Plant from late summer through autumn for harvests from autumn through to spring. Most varieties work well; the slightly milder conditions in coastal areas suit most cabbage types.
January to June. Melbourne is excellent cabbage country. The cool, steady conditions through autumn, winter, and spring suit the plant well. Multiple plantings 6–8 weeks apart give a continuous harvest.
December to May. Hobart and Canberra grow cabbages superbly — long cool seasons, sustained temperatures, and tolerable winter frosts that the plant handles well. Plant from early summer through autumn for harvests across most of the year.
March to May. The autumn-to-winter window works for cabbage in semi-arid zones. Mulch heavily — the plant's large leaves transpire significantly in dry climates and consistent watering matters.
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Open the full planting calendar →How to plant
Cabbage is grown from seedlings or direct-sown seeds. Seedlings give you a head start and tighter timing control. Start seeds 4–6 weeks before planting out, or buy seedlings.
Spacing: 40–50cm between plants for compact varieties, 50–60cm for large heading types. Spacing affects head size — closer plantings give smaller heads, wider spacing gives bigger ones.
Depth: Plant seedlings slightly deeper than they grew in the pot — up to the lowest leaves. The buried stem produces additional roots and stabilises the plant.
Soil: Rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Cabbage is a heavy feeder but more tolerant of variable conditions than cauliflower. Slightly alkaline pH (6.5–7.0). Add compost and a balanced fertiliser before planting.
Netting: Essential. Fine insect mesh from planting day prevents cabbage white butterfly damage entirely.
Pots, raised beds, or in-ground?
Cabbage is moderately pot-friendly compared to other large brassicas — smaller varieties can produce reasonable heads in containers.
In-ground is the standard, productive approach. The unrestricted root run produces the largest heads.
Raised beds work very well. The improved drainage and soil control suit cabbage. Allow 40–50cm between plants. A 1.2m × 1.2m bed easily holds 6–9 plants depending on variety.
Pots work for compact and miniature varieties (Sugarloaf, mini types) in a 40 litre pot per plant. Larger heading varieties (Drumhead, Savoy) need more root run than a pot reasonably provides. Consistent watering and regular feeding are essential — cabbage in a stressed pot produces small, loose heads.
Sunlight & water
Full sun — 6 to 8 hours per day. Cabbage tolerates a couple of hours less than this without major yield loss, but full sun produces the densest heads.
Water consistently and deeply. Cabbage tolerates some dry conditions better than cauliflower or broccoli, but consistent watering produces better heads. Mulch heavily — cabbage leaves shade the soil well, but mulch keeps moisture steady during dry spells.
When and how to harvest
Harvest when the head feels firm and dense — squeeze gently. A loose head needs more time; a head that resists pressure firmly is ready. Cut at the base of the head with a sharp knife, leaving the outer leaves and stem in place.
Don't pull the whole plant — if you leave the stump and outer leaves, many varieties produce small secondary heads (sometimes called "knuckles" or baby cabbages) over the following weeks. These won't reach full size but are excellent in stir-fries.
Cabbage stores well in the fridge for 2–3 weeks. Fermenting (sauerkraut, kimchi) is the traditional preservation method and uses any glut productively.
Common problems
Cabbage white butterfly — the defining cabbage pest. Net the bed from planting day. If unnetted, expect significant caterpillar damage; check leaves regularly and use Dipel spray (organic, derived from soil bacteria) for active infestations.
Aphids congregate on new growth in spring and autumn. Strong water spray or insecticidal soap usually controls them. Heavy infestations are worth tolerating to let ladybirds and parasitic wasps establish — they then provide ongoing biological control.
Splitting heads occur when a mature plant takes up water rapidly after a dry spell, usually following heavy rain. The head bursts from internal pressure. Twist the plant slightly to break some surface roots once it's nearly mature — this slows water uptake and reduces splitting.
Club root is a soil-borne fungal disease that causes swollen, distorted roots and stunted plants. There's no cure. Rotate brassicas (3–4 year gap minimum) to avoid building it up. If you have club root in your soil, growing brassicas in raised beds with fresh soil is the only reliable workaround.
Companion planting
Plant near: Onions, garlic, beetroot, celery, dill (attracts beneficial insects), nasturtium and marigold (decoy plants for aphids).
Keep away from: Strawberries, tomatoes, beans, and other brassicas in successive seasons.
Australian varieties
Sugarloaf — Pointed-headed, fast-maturing (60–70 days). Sweet, tender leaves. Doesn't store as long as round-headed types but excellent fresh. Widely available.
Drumhead — Large, flat-headed traditional variety. Slow to mature (90–100 days) but excellent storage life. Suits cool climates.
Savoy — Crinkled, dark green leaves with milder flavour and excellent texture. Beautiful in the garden. Slightly more cold-tolerant than smooth-leaved types. Heritage seed and speciality nurseries.
Red Acre / Red Drumhead — Purple-red heading cabbage. Attractive in the garden and on the plate. Sweet, dense heads with good storage life.
Wong Bok / Chinese cabbage — Tall, oblong, pale green Chinese cabbage with crinkled tender leaves. Faster-maturing than European cabbages, better suited to subtropical and tropical climates. Excellent in stir-fries and kimchi.
Mini Sugarloaf — Smaller-headed pointed cabbage. Fits in a 40 litre pot and matures fast. Good for small gardens.