How to grow rhubarb in Australia

VegetablePerennial1+ years to first harvest

Rhubarb is a long-lived, hardy perennial that, once established in a cool-winter climate, will hand you tart crimson stalks every spring for a decade with almost no effort. It's a cool-climate plant at heart — Tasmania, Victoria, the ACT, and the southern highlands are its happy places — and it struggles where winters are mild and summers are hot and humid. One critical safety point governs everything about growing it: only the stalks are edible. Rhubarb leaves are toxic (high in oxalic acid) and must never be eaten, by people or pets — remove and dispose of them whenever you harvest.

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Food safety — read before eating
Rhubarb leaves are TOXIC — they contain high concentrations of oxalic acid and must never be eaten. Remove leaves immediately when harvesting stalks. Do not compost leaves in open compost accessible to pets or children — dispose in sealed bin bag. Only the stalks (petioles) are edible.

When to plant

Rhubarb is planted from crowns (divisions) in winter while dormant, or from potted plants in late winter to spring. It needs cold winters for dormancy and vigour.

Tropical (Darwin, Cairns, Broome)

Not suited — no winter cold and far too much heat. Rhubarb won't persist in the tropics.

Subtropical (Brisbane, Gold Coast, northern NSW)

Difficult; mild winters mean weak, short-lived plants. Worth trying only in cooler elevated spots, treating it almost as a short-term crop.

Warm temperate (Sydney, Perth, Adelaide)

Possible in cooler microclimates and the hills; coastal warmth gives weaker plants. Adelaide Hills does well. Plant crowns in winter; give afternoon shade in summer.

Cool temperate (Melbourne, Ballarat, Bendigo)

Good — reliable and productive. Plant crowns in winter; Ballarat and Bendigo's colder winters give especially strong plants.

Cool/cold (Hobart, Canberra, alpine areas)

Ideal. Cold winters produce vigorous, heavy-cropping rhubarb that lasts for years. Plant crowns in winter.

Semi-arid / arid (Alice Springs, Broken Hill, Kalgoorlie)

Difficult — summer heat is punishing. Only feasible with afternoon shade, heavy mulch, and consistent water, and even then short-lived.

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How to plant

Plant dormant crowns (divisions) for the fastest, most reliable results; each crown should have at least one healthy bud ("eye").

Spacing: About 90cm apart — plants get large.

Depth: Plant the crown with the growing bud just at the soil surface; planting too deep causes the bud to rot.

Soil: Rich, deep, free-draining soil with lots of compost or aged manure, pH 5.5–6.5. Rhubarb is a hungry plant and rewards heavy feeding.

Patience: Do not harvest in the first year — let the plant build a strong crown. Remove any flower stalks that appear so energy goes into the plant.

Pots, raised beds, or in-ground?

In-ground is best for this large, long-lived perennial — give it a permanent, well-fed spot.

Large pots or half-barrels can work for a few years in small gardens, but rhubarb's size and appetite mean in-ground plants are far more productive.

Raised beds suit it well, providing the rich, deep, free-draining soil it prefers.

Sunlight & water

Full sun in cool climates; in warmer regions, afternoon shade reduces heat stress and prolongs the plant's life.

Water consistently, especially through the growing season — rhubarb wants steady moisture for plump, tender stalks, but not waterlogging. Mulch heavily to keep the roots cool and moist and to feed the soil. Reduce watering as the plant dies back in winter in cold climates.

When and how to harvest

From the second year onwards, harvest in spring and summer. Pull (don't cut) mature outer stalks with a gentle twist at the base; always leave several stalks so the plant keeps powering. Stop harvesting by late summer to let the plant rebuild for next year.

Trim off and discard the leaves immediately — they're toxic. Use only the stalks. Remove any flower stalks that appear, as flowering saps the plant's energy.

Common problems

Mild winters / heat — the fundamental limitation; rhubarb needs cold dormancy and sulks in warm, humid climates. Afternoon shade and mulch help in marginal zones, but cool climates are where it thrives.

Crown rot from planting too deep or wet, poorly drained soil — plant shallow and ensure drainage.

Bolting (flowering) in heat or stress — remove flower stalks promptly.

Thin, weak stalks usually mean the plant is hungry, too young, over-harvested, or in too warm a climate — feed well, harvest moderately, and be patient.

Companion planting

Rhubarb grows well near alliums such as garlic and onion (thought to help deter pests) and brassicas like broccoli and cabbage, which appreciate the same rich, cool conditions. Strawberries make a compatible companion in the cool-climate fruit-and-rhubarb patch.

Keep rhubarb away from cucumber, tomato, and pumpkin. Because the leaves are toxic, site rhubarb away from areas where pets graze unsupervised.

Australian varieties

Victoria — the classic, widely available variety with green-to-pink stalks and reliable vigour; the standard backyard choice.

Champagne — prized for sweet, tender, deep-red stalks; an excellent eating variety.

Glaskins Perpetual — vigorous, lower in oxalic acid, and tolerant of longer harvest periods; a good choice for keen cooks.

German Wine — speckled red stalks with strong flavour and good productivity.

Pet safety

🐕 Dogstoxic
🐈 Catstoxic
🐦 Birdstoxic
🐹 Small mammalstoxic
ASPCA: rhubarb leaves are toxic to all pets — contain oxalic acid and anthraquinone glycosides. Stalks are safe (human food), but leaves must be removed and composted away from pets. Do not grow in gardens where pets have unsupervised access.

Pet safety information is provided as a general guide only. If your pet has consumed any plant material, contact your vet or the Animal Poisons Helpline on 1300 869 738 immediately.