How to grow broad bean in Australia
Also known as: Fava Bean
Broad beans (also called fava beans) are the cold-climate workhorse of the bean family. They grow through winter when nothing else is producing, tolerate frost without complaint, fix nitrogen for the soil, and produce huge harvests of nutty-flavoured beans in spring. They're also one of the most generous green manure crops — even if you don't harvest the beans, the plants improve the soil for whatever you grow next. If you've got an empty winter bed in Melbourne, Sydney, or Adelaide, broad beans are the obvious crop.
When to plant
Broad beans need cool conditions to thrive — they grow most actively between 10–20°C and tolerate light frost. Hot weather above 25°C causes flower drop and reduced pod set.
May to July, during the coolest part of the dry season. Broad beans are marginal in the tropics — the cool window is short. Expect smaller harvests than in southern climates.
March to June. Long cool-season window suits broad beans well. Plant April for winter to spring harvest.
March to July. Excellent broad bean conditions. Plant April or May for the most productive crops.
March to July. Melbourne is ideal broad bean country. Plants survive heavy frosts and produce massive harvests in spring.
March to June. Hobart and Canberra are excellent broad bean climates. Plants tolerate snow and very heavy frost without damage.
April to June. Cold dry inland winters suit broad beans well. Less disease pressure than coastal climates.
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Open the full planting calendar →How to plant
Broad beans are direct-sown. They germinate readily in cool soil, often within 7–14 days.
Spacing: 15–20cm between plants in rows 60cm apart. Broad beans form tall plants (1–1.5m) and need space.
Depth: 4–5cm deep. The seeds are large, easy to handle, and don't need any special treatment.
Support: Plants grow tall and benefit from support to prevent wind damage and lodging. The simplest method is to plant in a double row with stakes at the corners and string run around the outside at 30cm and 60cm heights — this contains the plants and keeps them upright. Individual staking isn't necessary.
Soil: Like peas, broad beans fix nitrogen and don't need rich soil. Slightly alkaline pH (6.5–7.5) is preferred. Add lime to acidic soil.
No succession planting needed: Unlike peas, a single broad bean planting produces over 6–8 weeks of harvest — enough for most households.
Pots, raised beds, or in-ground?
Broad beans work in all three but are most productive in-ground.
In-ground is the standard. The deep root system and tall plants suit garden beds.
Raised beds work well, particularly for gardeners who want to fix soil nitrogen for the following season's crops.
Pots are possible but the plants are large and need substantial containers — at least 40 litres per 2–3 plants, with secure support against wind. Yields are modest compared to in-ground. Dwarf varieties (The Sutton) are better suited to pots than tall types.
Sunlight & water
Full sun — 6 to 8 hours daily.
Water moderately. Broad beans are reasonably drought-tolerant once established. Consistent moisture during flowering and pod development produces the best harvest.
When and how to harvest
Broad beans can be harvested at three stages, depending on preference:
Young pods (whole pod): When pods are 10–15cm long and the beans inside are still very small, pick whole pods and eat steamed or stir-fried like snow peas. Tender and sweet.
Mature beans (shelled): When pods are plump and the beans inside are large (1–2cm), shell the pods and eat the beans. Traditional broad bean stage. The grey-green skins around individual beans can be slipped off after blanching for a sweeter, brighter dish.
Dried beans: Leave pods on the plant until they're dry and brown, then harvest seeds for storage or replanting the following year.
The tips are edible too — pinch out the growing tips of the plants when they're flowering. The young leaves and tips cook like spinach and remove the tender growth where aphids most commonly cluster.
Common problems
Black aphids are the main broad bean pest in Australia. They cluster on the growing tips of plants in late winter and spring. Pinching out the tips (which are edible) removes most of the infestation. Strong water spray or insecticidal soap controls remaining aphids.
Chocolate spot is a fungal disease showing as brown spots on leaves. Most common in humid conditions. Improve airflow; remove affected leaves.
Rust can appear on leaves in spring. Same management as chocolate spot.
Lodging (plants falling over) is common in wind or rain. The double-row-with-string method prevents most lodging.
Companion planting
Plant near: Carrots, brassicas, lettuce, spinach, beetroot, potato (fix nitrogen for the heavy-feeding spuds).
Keep away from: All alliums (onion, garlic, chives, leek, spring onion) — same legume-allium incompatibility as peas. Fennel.
Australian varieties
Aquadulce — Spanish heritage variety, very cold-tolerant. The standard variety for early planting in cool climates. Reliable and widely available.
Coles Prolific — Australian-bred variety, very productive, large beans. Suits all cool-season climates.
Crimson Flowered — Heritage variety with deep red flowers (most broad beans have white flowers). Decorative as well as edible. Smaller harvests than commercial types.
The Sutton — Dwarf variety, only 60–90cm tall. Suits pots, windy sites, and small gardens.
Long Pod (Express) — Productive, long pods (15–20cm) with many beans per pod. Standard commercial variety.