How to grow potato in Australia 🥔

Potatoes need frost-free conditions to grow but tolerate light frost during establishment. They need 12–16 weeks from planting to harvest. The main constraint in most climates is fitting that growing window between frosts.

Use certified seed potatoes. Supermarket potatoes are often treated to inhibit sprouting and may carry diseases. Certified seed potatoes from a garden centre or seed supplier are disease-free and ready to plant. They're sold by variety and typically available March–September.

Chitting (optional but helpful): Place seed potatoes in egg cartons in a cool, bright spot (not direct sun) for 2–4 weeks before planting. They develop short, stubby green shoots. Chitting gives plants a head start of 2–3 weeks, particularly useful in climates with short windows.

Cutting larger seed potatoes: Seed potatoes larger than a golf ball can be cut into pieces, each with 2–3 eyes (sprout points). Let the cut surfaces dry overnight before planting to reduce rot.

Spacing: 30cm between plants in rows 60–80cm apart.

Depth: Plant 10–15cm deep with the sprout/eye facing up.

Soil: Well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5–6.5) — potatoes are one of the few vegetables that prefer slightly acidic conditions. Don't add lime. Plenty of organic matter, but avoid fresh manure (causes scab on the tubers).

Earthing up: As potato plants grow, the developing tubers form along the buried stem above the seed potato. To maximise tuber production, "earth up" plants by mounding soil or thick mulch up around the stems as they grow, keeping the developing tubers covered. The first earthing-up happens when plants are 20–25cm tall; repeat 2–3 times through the growing season. Exposed tubers turn green and produce solanine — green parts of potato are toxic.

Potatoes grow in all three options, and pot growing is genuinely effective.

In-ground is the standard for substantial harvests. A 2m × 2m bed produces enough potatoes for months.

Raised beds work well — improved drainage helps prevent tuber rot. Build the bed at least 30cm deep to allow for earthing up.

Pots are a real option for potatoes. A 40+ litre pot supports 2–3 seed potatoes for a harvest of 2–4kg per pot. The container needs depth (40cm minimum) and good drainage. Plant in the bottom third of the pot with potting mix, then add more mix as the plants grow — this is the pot equivalent of earthing up. Specialised potato bags and grow sacks make this easier. At harvest, tip the whole pot out to find the tubers. A pot of potatoes on a balcony genuinely produces a usable harvest.

Full sun — 6 to 8 hours daily.

Water consistently. Potatoes need steady moisture for tuber development. Reduce watering as the foliage starts to yellow and die back at the end of the season — wet conditions at harvest time cause rot.

New potatoes (small, thin-skinned): Harvest 10–12 weeks after planting, when plants are flowering. Carefully scrape soil away from the base of the plant and remove a few tubers; replace the soil and let the rest keep growing.

Mature potatoes (storage potatoes): Harvest when the foliage has yellowed and died back, typically 14–16 weeks after planting. Wait for a dry day. Dig carefully with a fork, starting well away from the plant to avoid spearing the tubers.

Curing: For storage, lay potatoes in a single layer in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot for 1–2 weeks. This toughens the skin and extends storage life. Don't wash them — water reduces storage life.

Storage: Properly cured potatoes stored in a cool, dark, dry spot keep 3–6 months depending on variety. Don't store in the fridge — cold converts starches to sugars, making them taste odd. Don't store near onions either — both produce ethylene gas that causes the other to deteriorate faster.

Greening — exposed tubers turn green and produce solanine, which is toxic. Don't eat green potatoes. Cut off green parts before cooking if minor; discard if substantial. Prevention is earthing up properly so tubers stay covered.

Potato scab — rough, corky patches on the skin. Cosmetic only; potatoes are still edible. Caused by alkaline soil or fresh manure. Don't add lime; use mature compost.

Potato blight — same disease as tomato blight. Brown patches on leaves, plants collapse, tubers rot. Most common in humid coastal climates. Choose blight-resistant varieties; rotate crops.

28-spotted ladybird (technically a leaf-eating ladybird that damages potato leaves) is a common pest in Australian gardens. Hand-pick if numbers are manageable; spray with insecticidal soap if heavy.

Wireworm larvae burrow into tubers causing holes. Crop rotation reduces buildup.

Plant near: Beans (fix nitrogen), corn, peas, brassicas, marigold, horseradish.

Keep away from: Tomatoes, eggplant, capsicum (share blight diseases), cucumber, pumpkin, sunflower, fennel.

Dutch Cream — Australian favourite. Yellow waxy flesh, excellent for boiling and roasting. Good keeper. Suits most climates.

Desiree — Pink-red skinned, yellow flesh. All-purpose. Reliable across most Australian climates.

Kipfler — Long, finger-shaped tubers with yellow waxy flesh. Premium eating quality. Slightly more demanding to grow — needs consistent water.

Sebago — White-fleshed all-rounder. Long-keeper. The "supermarket potato" — reliable and productive.

Pink Eye (Tasmanian favourite) — Pink-blushed white potato with excellent flavour. Suits cool climates.

Nicola — Yellow waxy flesh, salad potato. Good for roasting and boiling.

Royal Blue — Purple-skinned, yellow flesh. Decorative and excellent flavour.

King Edward — Heritage variety, floury white flesh. Best for mashing and baking. Cool climates preferred.