How to grow kale in Australia 🥬

Kale tolerates a wider temperature range than most brassicas, but it performs best in cool conditions. Frost actually improves the flavour — kale leaves develop noticeably more sweetness after a cold night.

Kale can be grown from seeds direct-sown or transplanted as seedlings. Both work well.

Spacing: 40–50cm between plants. Kale grows into a substantial plant (60–100cm tall depending on variety), so don't crowd it.

Depth: Sow seeds 0.5–1cm deep. Plant seedlings at the same depth they grew in the pot, or slightly deeper.

Soil: Kale tolerates a wider range of soil conditions than other brassicas but performs best in rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Slightly alkaline pH (6.5–7.0) is ideal. Add compost before planting.

Netting: Worthwhile but less critical than for broccoli or cabbage. Kale tolerates moderate caterpillar damage better than heading brassicas — the plant produces new leaves continuously and a few chewed older leaves don't significantly affect harvest. That said, net the bed if you can; it's still the best protection.

Kale is one of the most pot-friendly brassicas — a single plant in a good-sized pot can produce leaves for months.

In-ground is the standard and most productive option. The unrestricted root run supports large plants and long harvests.

Raised beds are excellent. A 1.2m × 1.2m bed holds 4–6 kale plants comfortably and produces enough leaves for a household over many months.

Pots work very well. A 25–30 litre pot suits a single kale plant; the plant doesn't need extreme depth or width. Two or three plants in a 50 litre pot also works. Compact dwarf varieties (Dwarf Blue Curled) suit smaller pots. Regular feeding helps — liquid fertiliser every 2–3 weeks during the productive period — but kale is more forgiving of pot conditions than other brassicas.

Full sun is ideal, but kale tolerates part shade (4–6 hours of direct sun) better than most vegetables. In subtropical and tropical climates, afternoon shade through summer extends the productive period.

Water consistently but kale tolerates short dry spells well. Mulch is helpful but not as critical as for moisture-sensitive brassicas. Once established, kale can handle a couple of weeks of erratic watering without lasting damage.

Harvest individual outer leaves rather than cutting the whole plant. Pick the lower, older leaves first and leave the central growing tip and inner young leaves to continue producing. A healthy plant produces a steady supply of leaves for 6–12 months from one planting.

Leaves are best when picked young to medium-sized (15–25cm). Very large old leaves develop tough stems and stronger flavour; use them for soups or stews where the longer cooking softens them.

Store harvested leaves in the fridge for up to a week. Kale freezes well after blanching.

Kale has remarkably few problems compared to other brassicas. The main issues are:

Cabbage white butterfly caterpillars — same as all brassicas, but kale tolerates moderate damage. Net the bed or pick caterpillars off by hand. Damage to a few leaves doesn't affect the plant's continuing production.

Aphids can colonise leaves in spring and autumn. Strong water spray or insecticidal soap controls them. Often resolves naturally as predators arrive.

Bolting in warm weather — older plants eventually shoot to flower in spring. Once the central stem starts elongating dramatically, the plant is winding down. Harvest the remaining leaves and compost the plant.

Plant near: Onions, garlic, beetroot, celery, herbs in general. Kale is a tolerant neighbour for most other plants.

Keep away from: Strawberries, tomatoes. Rotate kale and other brassicas through different beds across seasons.

Tuscan Kale (Cavolo Nero / Lacinato / Dinosaur Kale) — Long, narrow, deeply textured dark blue-green leaves. The most popular kale in Australian home gardens. Tender, mild flavour. Productive over a long season. Widely available as seedlings.

Curly Kale (Scotch Kale) — The familiar tightly curled green kale found in supermarkets. Robust, productive, very cold-hardy. Slightly tougher leaves than Tuscan kale — better for cooking than raw use.

Red Russian — Flat, frilly leaves with purple stems and veins. Milder, sweeter flavour than other kales. Beautiful in the garden. Heritage seed suppliers and many nurseries.

Redbor — Deep purple-red curly leaves. Cold-tolerant, attractive, productive. Heritage and speciality suppliers.

Dwarf Blue Curled — Compact (40–50cm tall), curly blue-green leaves. The best kale for pots and small gardens.

Kale Mix — Several seed suppliers sell mixed packets containing different kale varieties. Useful for trying types before committing to one.